Two Weeks in Oaxaca
Before we left, I was surprised how many people asked, “Wait, where are you going again?” Followed quickly by, “Where is that?”
Oaxaca is a state in southern Mexico, but it’s also the name of the capital city, Oaxaca de Juárez. And for as long as I can remember, I’ve wanted to go.
Most Americans’ experience of Mexican food skews heavily toward the north—border states, Tex-Mex, or the kind of “Mexican” cuisine tailored to fit a certain palette. It’s not unlike those Italian-American restaurants where everything’s drowned in red sauce. Familiar, but not exactly rooted in place.
Oaxaca is different. It’s the culinary soul of Mexico. Mole, mezcal, tlayudas, markets that make you want to spend the day talking to every vendor just to understand what’s in season and why. That was reason number one for this trip: to eat, to learn, to cook, to taste.
The second reason was a little less savory, a little more salt and sun: Puerto Escondido. About seven hours south by road, this stretch of Pacific coastline is home to the famed “Mexican Pipeline.” It’s one of the only spots in the country fully exposed to southern hemisphere swell, and it delivers. Rugged, raw, and alive.
Oaxaca exceeded every expectation. The food, yes, but also the people. We made friends we still keep in touch with. The warmth and generosity we experienced was unforgettable.
